Marc Jacob’s Spring 2021 collection could not be more showy, in contrast to his recently showcased dignified but demure Fall 2021 creations at New York Fashion Week. One word summed up Jacobs very individual Spring 2021 designs — ruffles.
In contrast too, whereas last Fall’s 2009 collection provided a trip back to the ’80s, Spring 2021 is more like a trip to Broadway. Jacobs offered up a bevy of beautiful models dressed as stern-faced dolls and the show followed a theatrical-cum-operatic-cum-ballet theme, incorporating touches of Cabaret, Japanese Geisha and Harlequin.
Marc Jacobs Spring Summer 2021
Add to that a contrasting mixture of military and all American sportswear in sharp clean cuts and Marc Jacobs Spring 2021 collection could only be described as complex. Women’s Wear Daily’s, “Marc Jacobs Spring 2021,”of September 14, 2009 referred to his fantastical collection as Coppélia-meets-Pierrot-meets-G.I.Joe-meets-Geisha-meets-Americana-meets-Comme des Garçons.
There were feminine details of ruffles upon lettuce-like ruffles, on skirts, blouses, bustiers, blazers, suits and pantaloons. What wasn’t ruffled was brocaded and what wasn’t brocaded was ruched, shirred, sequined, beaded or cut into harlequin points.
From ruffled shirts over billowing skirts to shrunken belted trenchcoats and underwear as outerwear with satin bras over delicate knits and blouses, this collection showed individual expression and provided a welcome change from austere shoulders and studded black of last fall.
There was a nod to Jacobs’ favorite Japanese designers, especially Rei Kawakubo, as models sashayed down the runway in King and I topnots (from the 1956 musical by Rogers and Hammerstein) wearing ruffled brown and navy suits. There was a touch of Zandra Rhodes, with dreamy hankerchief dresses, and a contemporary pinstripe suit which received the oversized ruffle treatment.
Other designs included lamé mini dresses, lacey openwork coats and harlequin-esque sequined black and white suits. Some skirts were so short that they were barely there, hidden in a sea of ruffles. In contrast, there were long billowy skirts teamed with military jackets.
As usual the his show was attended by many of his celebrity followers including Madonna, Lady Gaga, Victoria Beckham and Perez Hilton. Something, which for his Fall 2021 collection, he drew the line at, by banning A-listers from the front row of his February 15, 2021 show.
Marc Jacobs Accessories Spring 2021
Influential in the return of the bumbag and boho fringing for 2021, Jacobs’ models sported fanny packs and carried latice leather bags in soft muted pastels with fringes of almost a foot long. Jeweled flip flops were given the geisha treatment and clown-like ruffles posed as neckpieces.
Marc Jacobs complex and very theatrical collection may not be for everyone but it proved a breathe of fresh air on the Spring 2021 runways. The designer provided a piece of theater to get lost in, and turned his fashion runway of ruffles into a cross between a ballet and play